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18. There’s a tiny cotter pin that you’ll have to remove. It’ll probably break on you, but don’t sweat it, cotter pins are cheap. Use a hammer and nail or a tiny chisel to get the remains out.
19. Now disconnect the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using a tie rod end remover. It’s going to pop apart suddenly, so don’t let it scare you!
20. Around the back of the knuckle, there are about 8 seal bolts in a circle pattern. Once you get the joint seal bolts off, remove the oil seal cover, the pad (also called the felt, the oil seal, and the retainer from the steering knuckle. Instead of just cutting them off, try to pull them over the knuckle to practice putting the new ones on without damage sort of like a free second chance!
21. You are almost halfway done!!! Now you can get back to those kingpins. Go ahead and remove both the upper and lower kingpins, but DO NOT mix them up. Hey! If it were up to me, I’d label all of the parts!! Put them somewhere they wont be bothered they have to be installed in the same direction and location as they came from or your steering geometry will be changed.
22. Finally, remove the knuckle and pull the axle shaft joint out of the front axle housing. 23. Clean out all of the goo (technical term) and remove the old oil seal with a hammer and chisel. 
The idea here is to grab an edge of the seal with the pointy part of the chisel and bump it into the center of the sealed area. It should come out easily after that. DO NOT DAMAGE THE METAL EDGE OF THE SEALED AREA!
24. Now…put it all back together! Come on.. you can do it.. just reverse the process and call me when you’re done!! Oh, alright. I guess I can’t just leave you hanging. At this point though, you will need to refer to the Service manual for greasing and sealing specifications as there are many places this must be done. (Hey, I cant do EVERYTHING for you, right?)
08/11/10 15:12
